Skyline of Jerusalem's Old City with the Catholic church and the Dome of the Rock showing

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iStock Photo

Photo Essay

Sacred Seasons: Tracing the Holy Calendar of Jerusalem’s Palestinians

Snapshot

This year, Muslims and Christians around the world find their religious calendars intertwined as Ramadan and Lent coincide, marking a period of shared spiritual devotion. In Jerusalem, a sacred land for all three Abrahamic religions, these weeks are particularly eventful, as rites and ceremonies take over the city. Here we highlight some major events and their sites, past and present.

Easter holds a special place in the spiritual calendar of Jerusalem, the city where Jesus Christ is believed to have been crucified, buried, and resurrected. Throughout the Lent season leading up to Easter, Jerusalemites and pilgrims observe various religious ceremonies, including Ash Wednesday, Palm Sunday, Maundy Thursday, Good Friday, and Holy Saturday. A central site to these traditions is the fourth-century Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which was built on the site considered to hold the tomb of Jesus.

Greek Orthodox priests arrive for a foot-washing ceremony in Jerusalem, April 2022

Greek Orthodox clergymen arrive for the traditional feet-washing ceremony in front of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem’s Old City as part of the Christian Orthodox Holy Week, April 2022.

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Ahmad Gharabli/AFP via Getty Images

Within the ancient walls of Jerusalem’s Old City also lies Via Dolorosa, Latin for “Way of Suffering,” the route believed to trace Jesus Christ’s path to his crucifixion. Pilgrims flock to Jerusalem to walk in the footsteps of Jesus along Via Dolorosa, which comprises 14 stations, beginning at the Franciscan Chapel of the Condemnation and ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Pilgrims assemble outside the Church of Saint Anne in Jerusalem’s Old City, November 10, 1930.

Pilgrims assemble outside the Church of Saint Anne near the start of the Via Dolorosa. Saint Anne is a 12th-century French Roman Catholic church built by the Crusaders on the site where the parents of the Virgin Mary lived, according to tradition. It is located in the Muslim Quarter of the Old City and is shown here on November 10, 1930.

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Wikimedia

A Syrian Orthodox Palm Sunday procession in Jerusalem during Easter 1941

A Syrian Orthodox Palm Sunday procession in 1941 led by Archbishop Jacob Filixinos in Jerusalem. The Syriac Orthodox Church, informally known as the Jacobite Church, is an Oriental church that branched from the Church of Antioch.

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Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-DIG-matpc-04409]

With Jerusalem being home to at least 13 various Christian denominations, the religious landscape is characterized by rich diversity, particularly evident during the celebration of Easter, which is observed on different days due to variations in the liturgical calendars of Christian Orthodox, Catholic, and Protestant traditions.

The Holy Fire ceremony at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, April 23, 2022.

Christian Orthodox worshippers and pilgrims hold candles lit from the Holy Fire in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, April 23, 2022. The ceremony has been celebrated in the same way for 11 centuries and is marked by the miraculous appearance of “sacred fire” in two cavities on either side of the Holy Sepulchre.

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Mays Shkerat for Jerusalem Story

The Holy Fire ceremony celebrated by Orthodox Christians in Jerusalem ca. 1880–1900

A crowd waiting for the Holy Fire to come down from heaven, a miracle celebrated by the Greek Orthodox church during Easter week in Jerusalem ca. 1880–1900. This ritual occurs annually and is conducted by the Greek Orthodox Patriarch of Jerusalem with the participation of the Armenian Patriarch.

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Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-DIG-matpc-06568]

Three patriarchs reside in Jerusalem, including Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic, and Armenian. Additionally, there are ten other archbishops and bishops; five are Catholic, including Melkite, Maronite, Syrian, Armenian, and Chaldean; three are Orthodox, including Coptic, Syrian, and Ethiopian; and two are Protestant, which are Anglican and Lutheran.1

Christians participate in the Catholic Palm Sunday procession in Jerusalem, April 14, 2019.

Christians walk through the streets of Jerusalem during the Latin Catholic Palm Sunday procession, April 14, 2019.

Ethiopian Christian worshippers take part in a Good Friday procession around Jerusalem, April 30, 2021.

Ethiopian Orthodox Christian worshippers take part in a Good Friday procession along the Via Dolorosa (Way of Suffering) in Jerusalem’s Old City, April 30, 2021.

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 Emmanuel Dunand/AFP via Getty Images

While Christian pilgrimage to Jerusalem has been an age-old phenomenon, Israeli restrictions and policies that began with the occupation of East Jerusalem in 1967 and exacerbated following the 2023–24 Gaza war have impeded access to the Old City for Palestinians from the occupied territories and Arabs from neighboring countries. During Easter ceremonies, Israeli police block all entrances to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and limit the presence of worshippers to a certain number in the church, denying faithful Christians the right to pray unless they obtain permits, which are not granted to everyone.

Israeli police harass Christian worshippers in Jerusalem during the Holy Fire ceremony, April 23, 2022.

Israeli police forces harass worshippers during the ceremony of the Holy Fire in the vicinity of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, April 23, 2022. Police distinguished between Arabic-speaking Christians and foreign Christians using different-colored ID bracelets and quotas.

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Afif Amireh for Jerusalem Story

It is also worth mentioning that the Easter period historically coincides with another pilgrimage tradition that was traditionally celebrated by Muslims in Palestine, known as the Nabi Musa festival.

Nebi Musa procession in Palestine, April 1920

Muslims celebrate the Nabi Musa festival, a local Palestinian tradition built around a pilgrimage to the Nabi Musa shrine, in April 1920. The festival typically included a procession, feast, and other festivities.

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Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-DIG-matpc-00744]

Dating back to the Crusader period, the weeklong festival was built around a collective pilgrimage from Jerusalem to a holy site near Jericho, Palestine, where Muslims believe is the location of prophet Moses’ tomb. The procession would usually be headed by the Mufti of Jerusalem and feature men on horseback along with flags, banners, and musical instruments. In recent years, the celebration of the festival has waned, influenced by a combination of political and social factors. Changing demographics and the occupation’s restrictions on movement and access to religious sites have hindered participation, while shifting cultural priorities have diverted attention away from several traditional celebrations observed across historical Palestine since the Ayyubid period, such as the festivals of Nabi Salah and Nabi Rubin.2

A whirling dervish performs at the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem during the Nabi Musa festival, April 2016.

A whirling dervish performs at the Dome of the Rock during the Nabi Musa festival in April 2016. Although some celebrations still take place on this occasion, the centuries-old festival has faced numerous bans since Israel’s occupation of the West Bank (including East Jerusalem) in 1967.

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Muammar Awad/Anadolu Agency via Getty Images

Moreover, Jerusalem holds great significance for Muslims especially during Ramadan, as it is the site of the third holiest mosque, according to Islamic tradition. The city derives its religious prominence from being the first qibla, which is the direction Muslims face when they pray, in Islam, and its association with the Prophet Muhammad’s miraculous nocturnal journey to the city before his ascension to heaven, known as al-lsra’ wa-l-Mi‘raj.

Presenting a Ramadan cannon to Muslims at Damascus Gate, 1945

British soldiers present the Ramadan cannon to Jerusalem’s Palestinians at Damascus Gate during the British Mandate in 1945. The cannon is an ancient tradition which serves to signal the end of the daily fast.

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Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-DIG-matpc-12570]

The street market at Jerusalem’s Damascus Gate at dusk during Ramadan, undated

The street market at Damascus Gate to the Old City of Jerusalem during Ramadan with decorations and sparkling lights at dusk, undated

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Christopher A. Jones via Getty Images

Further, the Dome of the Rock shrine in Jerusalem is believed to be the spot where the Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven, just as the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is believed to be the site of Jesus’ ascension. At the end of the seventh century, the Dome of the Rock and the al-Aqsa Mosque were built on the site of the Prophet Muhammad’s prostrations and ascension. The two mosques and their surroundings became known as al-Haram al-Sharif.

Palestinians gather to break their fast together in a mass fast-breaking Iftar meal at the al-Aqsa mosque during Ramadan, March 30, 2024

Palestinians gather to break their fast together in a mass fast-breaking iftar meal at the al-Aqsa Mosque during the holy month of Ramadan, March 30, 2024. 

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Faiz Abu Rmeleh/Middle East Images/AFP via Getty Images

Friday prayer at al-Aqsa Mosque is especially important to Muslims during Ramadan and on Eid al-Fitr, the day when Muslims break their month-long fast. Other observances during Ramadan include the daily evening prayer, known in Arabic as tarawih, and the commemoration of Laylat al-Qadr, one of the holiest nights in Islam, which means “the night of power” in Arabic.

A Friday prayer at al-Aqsa Mosque, 1964

A Friday prayer at al-Aqsa Mosque in 1964 with the Dome of the Rock in the background

Credit: 

Al-Aqsa Foundation for the Reconstruction of Islamic Sanctities

Ramadan Friday prayer at al-Aqsa Mosque, March 29, 2024

Muslims pray on the third Friday of the holy month of Ramadan at the Haram al-Sharif compound in Jerusalem amid Israeli restrictions, March 29, 2024.

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Mostafa Alkharouf/Anadolu via Getty Images

Muslims also visit al-Aqsa Mosque on the morning of Eid al-Adha, the second of the two main holidays celebrated in Islam, which commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael in obedience to God’s command.

Eid al-Adha celebration at the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, 1907

Eid al-Adha celebration in the courtyard of al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem, 1907

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Alexander Flores via Salim Tamari (via British Mandate Jerusalemites Photo Library)

Prior to Ramadan this year, anticipation swirled around Jerusalem amid speculations about Israeli authority bans and restrictions on entry to al-Aqsa Mosque, particularly following tightened regulations following Israel’s assault on Gaza. Despite allowing worshippers to access al-Aqsa Mosque with permits, Israeli authorities enforced time and age restrictions during Friday prayers.

The journey from the regions outside the municipal boundaries to access the city, the Old City, and al-Aqsa Mosque, which is already challenging due to military checkpoints, has become even more exhausting and uncertain.

Palestinian people perform Friday prayer on the street in Jerusalem due to Israeli restrictions on entry to al-Aqsa Mosque, March 8, 2024.

Palestinians perform Friday prayer on the street in Jerusalem due to Israeli restrictions on entry to al-Aqsa Mosque, March 8, 2024.

Credit: 

Mostafa Alkharouf/Anadolu via Getty Images

For Palestinian Christians and Muslims, however, these political barriers infuse the spiritual journey with sentiments of resistance, steadfastness, and patriotism. Visiting al-Aqsa Mosque for a Palestinian Muslim becomes an emotional journey and an act of patriotism, while for a Palestinian Christian, presence in Jerusalem during Easter signifies not only religious devotion but also a commitment to the city and its social fabric.

Notes

1

The Christian Denominations in the Holy Land,” Koinonia, accessed April 29, 2024.

2

Wadi‘ ‘Awawda, “The Shrine of the Prophet Moses Is an Archaeological Urban Lighthouse on the Edge of the Palestinian Desert” [in Arabic], Al-Quds Al-Arabi, January 16, 2021.

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